Marinating in Madeira. My road to Portuguese fluency

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Marination in Madeira

I was always told that the secret to enjoying wine was to keep drinking it.

“If you don’t like it, just continue trying it until you do.” Wise words from my Dad!

This makes him sound like a religious alcoholic, which he is not. In fact, it turns out that his advice is applicable to many things in life, especially when it comes to immersing yourself in a new language.

I call the process cultural “marination” and having just returned from a marketing and wine internship on the island of Madeira, I can safely say I know how to put this into practice. After 3 months spent sampling the local culture and gastronomy, I am now not only a raving Madeira wine fan but also, I hope, a little more fluent in Portuguese.

So here is a flavour of what full “marination” in Madeiran culture involves:

Madeira Wine

The island is famous for its fortified wines, whose rare taste and longevity (you can keep a bottle open for a year without the wine going off) come from the unique heating and traditional ageing process which they go through. Vineyards of Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malmsey and Tinta Negra grapes tumble and cascade over Madeira’s rugged peaks and the wines made from these are served as often to tourists in restaurants as they are in locals’ homes. As with language learning, the secret is keep on trying in order to fully understand deeper levels of taste and complexity.

CR7

Madeira is Cristiano Ronaldo mad. He has his own museum, hotel and now airport. I was lucky enough to be on one of the first flights departing from the newly opened “Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport” on the 29th March. The inauguration day was a crammed confusion of important national figures, TV journalists and school children screaming at his horrifying new bust.

The Cristiano Ronaldo Bust - Madeira
Cristiano Ronaldo Bust

Bananas and Odd Exotic Fruit

Madeiran farmers claim their bananas are smaller than continental ones, but tastier. If that doesn’t do it for you then the extraordinary range of weird fruit just might. Even if you are widely travelled, Madeira will show you fruit you never knew existed: alien-green pipinelas, scaley but mushy custard apples, something known as an “english tomato” which has most certainly never caught a glimpse of British soil in its life, as well as a sort of ridged cherry called pitanga and over seven different types of passionfruit. Whatever your taste you’ll find something that takes your fancy.

Local Slang

The Madeiran word for a coffee with milk is garoto, which means boy. I’ve been told it’s not appropriate to use this when ordering at a café on mainland Portugal.

Food

It’s an absolute essential to try the local delicacies if you want to fully immerse in Madeirenese culture. Eat Espada (sword fish) with banana (local dish, surprisingly edible), Espetada (meat kebab), or Lapas (limpets) if you feel adventurous. Honestly more appetising than they sound.

Humour

One of the best ways to understand a foreign culture is to get their sense of humour, so listening to local comedians is a must! Check out the Portuguese Ricardo Arujo Pereira, debating live on radio the best way to eat cereal and the optimum temperature of milk:

Or the very Madeiran 4 Litros, a comedy group which satirise the island’s culture through youtube. In reaction to Donald Trump’s “America First” speech, they produced a parody video “America First, Madeira Second”:

A lot of the above may not exactly be your cup of tea, but the key to cultural immersion, much like wine tasting, is to keep drinking it in. Just as wine improves with age, so too do language skills with time. Alternatively, just try speaking Portuguese after drinking a bottle of Madeira, the results are astounding.

Read more about Maddy’s experiences abroad: https://madseverington.wordpress.com/category/musings-abroad/

The Argentinian Blues

Argentina

Suffering from the famous Post-Year-Abroad-Blues, here are a few things I miss from living in Argentina (or things I grudgingly had to get used to whether I liked it or not): It is not just about Immersing yourself in the language but in the culture as well!

  1. Kissing EVERYBODY

From a friend’s grandmother to your boss, from your landlord to the annoying neighbour with the barking dog next door, you kissed everyone you met. Just once on the cheek, not twice like in Spain. I actually really appreciated having a uniform way of greeting people, because it avoided all British embarrassment of “are we hugging/hand shaking/waving like an idiot/nodding formally at each other like a muppet?” Strange men were acceptable to avoid kissing, but otherwise, that’s just what you did.

  1. Everything Taking a Very-Long-Time to be Sorted Out

I wouldn’t say I ended up loving the South American inefficiency whilst I lived abroad, but it definitely made me chill out about getting things sorted out immediately, and it one hundred percent made me realise how lucky we are to live in England where a 5 minute delay is a legitimate excuse for complaint. In Buenos Aires I once spent 6 hours waiting in queues and travelling across the city to try and withdraw my month’s wages. I went to three different branches and all had run out of cash, so I had to borrow off friends over the 4 day weekend. Paying bills and sorting out accounts is something that we can easily do online at home, but not something which has stretched in its entirety to South America.

  1. Food Sharing

“Cuando hay, hay para todos. Cuando no hay, no hay para nadie”, as my landlady told me. If there was food on the table you could take it and didn’t have to ask. Table manners drummed into me from an early age found this difficult to swallow but I did my best to be Argentinian and just grab. Annoyingly it also meant that if you had brought biscuits into the staff room people automatically assumed they could have some too which was NOT the case. Chocolate digestives were impossible to come by in Argentina, and I wasn’t going to share my limited supply.

  1. Reggeaton

This music was and is a guilty pleasure, and I’m sure anyone who has spent any time living in a Spanish speaking country will agree with me. Nothing like a bit of Osmani Garcia to bring back memories of fernet-filled evenings, asados, nights in Ferona, Niceto, Crowbar…

 

  1. The Argentinian Asado

I should probably have put this at the top of the list. The quintessential Argentinian social gathering which involved the most delicious and tender red meat I think I will ever eat, cooked on the parilla, washed down with copious amounts of Malbec or Fernet, and burnt off with dancing solidly until 7am the next morning. Fantastic.

Check out this guy and his asado channel on youtube for more content!